There can't be many dishes as controversial as the Bakewell tart. For starters, there seems to be no kind of consensus on its name. We might call them tarts now, but in Bakewell itself, they're puddings – as they were generally known for hundreds of years. (Their long history belies the popular, but apocryphal, tale of the tart being a local cook's serendipitous creation in 1860.) Neither is it easy to find agreement on what the correct ingredients are. Different recipes call for custardy or sponge-cake fillings – so this version is a, if not the, classic Bakewell.