From Tamarind & Saffron by Claudia Roden (Penguin, £12.99) This is a rustic country salad of Syria and Lebanon. The key flavour is sumac, a spice made from the dried berries of the bush, Rhus coriaria. The berries are dried in the sun, then ground and sifted to produce a coarse-textured powder. It has a pleasing, lemony taste and is also used in stuffings, egg dishes, and to top grilled fish and meat.
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