1. Using sharp scissors, trim the ruffled outer edge (skirt) of the ray wing.
2. Place the ray in a small sauté pan just big enough to fit snugly inside.
3. Pour the white wine and water or fish stock over the skate and add a small pinch of salt.
4. Add the carrot, Romano pepper, thyme, bay leaves and lemon slice.
5. Cover the pan with a piece of greaseproof paper, and put the pan on a medium heat.
6. When almost at boiling point, add the crushed peppercorns, then reduce the heat and poach gently for 2-3 minutes.
7. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside to cool until tepid.
8. Drain the fish, reserving the poaching liquor, then lightly pat dry with kitchen paper.
9. Pass the poaching liquor through a fine sieve into a pan. Simmer to reduce by half but not more.
10. Remove the pan from the heat, add the well-drained gelatine leaf and stir gently with a spoon.
11. Place the liquor on ice to cool rapidly, stirring gently from time to time.
1. Gently pull the ray flesh off the bone using a fork and/or fingertips in spaghetti-like strips into a mixing bowl.
2. Add wholegrain mustard, samphire if using, the snipped chives, capers and gherkins and combine gently with a fork.
3. Add reduced poaching liquor, enough to bind to soft spooning consistency.
4. Add salt and white pepper to taste.
5. Line, by generously overlapping with cling film, a small rimless bowl or soufflé mould, about 11cm diameter, 6cm deep.
6. Evenly line the inside of bowl or soufflé mould with the slices of courgette.
7. Spoon the gâteau mixture into the bowl or soufflé mould, tap lightly and fold over the cling film to seal. Leave to set for at least a couple of hours in the fridge.
To make the vinaigrette:
1. In a small bowl, combine the lemon juice and mustard, season with a little salt and pepper.
2. Slowly whisk in the oil until well combined. Season to taste and adjust accordingly.
3. If the vinaigrette is too thick, adjust the consistency with a little water.
1. Undo the cling film and place a serving plate on top of bowl or mould. Turn the plate over and carefully remove the bowl/mould to turn out the gâteau. Carefully remove the cling film from the gâteau.
2. Place undressed, unseasoned salad leaves in 4 small clusters around the gâteau, and sprinkle with the egg yolk to garnish. In between the leaves, place and crush one raspberry with a fork or your thumb.
3. Spoon a little vinaigrette onto each crushed raspberry.
4. Sprinkle the remaining snipped chives on top of the gâteau.