Potted Kippers

1. Preheat the oven to 200˚C, gas mark 6. Lay the kippers on a baking tray and dot with 30g butter. Bake in the oven for 6–8 minutes until golden brown and smelling marvellous. Leave to sit for 5 minutes or so until cool enough to handle.

2. Gently remove the backbone, head and skin from the kippers. Flake the flesh and pick through it to remove as many bones as possible.

3. Melt the remaining butter and beat with the fish. Then beat in the soured cream, lemon juice and plenty of black pepper. Place in a bowl, cover and refrigerate. Remove from the fridge 20 minutes before eating and serve with the watercress and a pile of toast and butter.