Just like fashions, grape varieties go in and out of style, and the name on
every wine lover's lips this season is the crisp and refreshing Sauvignon Blanc.
Joe Wadsack sings the praises of the white that's the new black.
Back in the Eighties and Nineties, bold Chardonnays from Australia and California dominated the white wine market, seducing drinkers with full-throttled, richly-textured flavours. But, eventually, the full-bodied attractions of Chardonnay started to wane and so began the hunt for an altogether more refreshing wine. And Sauvignon Blanc is it.
Sauvignon Blanc has an arrestingly crisp tang and soft fruit taste. And, in a climate of increasingly healthy eating, it is a far more suitable accompaniment to most salads and vegetable dishes, and even suits some downright awkward foods, such as asparagus and peppers.
Which styles should you look out for?
First, there is the crisp, unoaked, minerally style of the Loire. In good years (2002 is a cracker), these are arguably the finest wines to serve before a meal. Their fresh and fruity qualities make for an ideal apéritif, while the finer examples are perfect matches for a whole range of great foods, from moules marinières to goat's cheese.
The next most popular style is typified by the passion fruit- and gooseberry-infused Sauvignon Blancs of New Zealand and Australia. Their sharp, clean flavours are ideal with herby foods, such as pesto and tapenade. Try wines from South Africa and Chile if you're looking for great value.
Altogether more refined are the barrel-fermented Reserve styles. They are often blended with Semillon for added roundness, but the Loire, Bordeaux and New Zealand are making very sophisticated, great value oaked Sauvignons.
Finally, you have the fully ripe, almost oily Fumé Blancs of California, which are generally too soft to compete with the better balanced examples from elsewhere.
As there's no better time than spring to enjoy these whites, here are a few of my favourites from the Waitrose wine list.
Waitrose Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Loire, France, £4.49
This classy wine is a great example of a crisp French Sauvignon Blanc at an affordable price. Deliciously mouthwatering, it is full of the fresh flavours of apples and elderflower, making it my apéritif of choice as the weather warms up.
Cheverny Le Vieux Clos 2002 Delaille, Loire, France, £5.49
This is another superb Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley. The secret of this fresh, aromatic white is the addition of a smidgen of passion fruit scented Chardonnay that adds real breadth and richness to the wine. Get your goat's cheese out now!
Springfield Special Cuvée Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Robertson, South Africa, £7.99
In the last four years, South Africa has worked out how to make consistently great Sauvignon Blanc, and this company has been at the forefront since the beginning. This wine has a Chablis-like smokiness that is terrific with oysters and mussels.
Cheverny Le Vieux Clos 2002 Delaille, Loire, France, £5.49
This is another superb Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley. The secret of this fresh, aromatic white is the addition of a smidgen of passion fruit scented Chardonnay that adds real breadth and richness to the wine. Get your goat's cheese out now!
Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Marlborough, New Zealand, £7.99
This was my favourite Sauvignon Blanc of 2002 and the 2003 vintage is just as good. It has a perfectly balanced palate that's bursting with the aromas of passion fruit and elderflower. Drink with a tomato-based salad or any firm textured fish, such as monkfish.
Villa Montes Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Casablanca Valley,
Chile, £5.99
One of the first consistent Chilean producers of fruity, fragrant Sauvignon Blanc. The cooler district of Casablanca is ideal for this variety and the 2003 wine is full of elderflower and pear fruit - my favourite vintage of this wine yet. Enjoy with fish and chips.
Shaw & Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Adelaide Hills, S Australia, £9.99
This wine is perfumed and mouthwateringly fresh with the added zing of apples, which are also grown at the winery. It has a pure texture that eludes many New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, making this a stunning match with the richest, creamiest cheeses. A modern day classic.
Lindemans Bin 95 Sauvignon Blanc 2002/03 SE Australia, £5.99
The Australians have really mastered making delicate Sauvignon Blanc with this gooseberry-fool infused beauty. Its soft fruit is beautifully balanced by its crisp acidity leading to a lovely dry, long finish. Serve alongside a risotto or with tiger prawns.
Pouilly-Fumé 2002 Masson-Blondelet, Loire, France, £10.49
Forgive me for recommending another stunning Loire white from the 2002 vintage, but
this superb wine has a flowing silkiness in the mouth and an aroma that is all about subtlety and restraint. Perfect with white fish, particularly sole, or a fine creamy Brie.
This recipe was first published on Waitrose.com in March 2004.