Relax, it's time to chill out with a glass of something fresh or fruity. And the coolest wines come from faraway shores, says Chris Orr.
The great British summer has changed almost beyond recognition. When I was a nipper, it centred on ice-cream vans, paddling pools on our lawn and my father regularly trapping his fingers in those lethal folding metal garden chairs. ‘Outside dining' comprised mainly burnt sausages and coleslaw served on paper plates.
Now lawns have been replaced by decking, steamer chairs have become
de rigueur, and sandwiches and sausages have been replaced by Asian this, Moroccan that and fusion the other – in fact, all
manner of exotic dishes. In short, summer dining has turned into a wonderful global dining experience.
And our wine drinking is heading in the same direction. It used to be France all the way, but as our appreciation of cuisines from around the world has grown, so has our interest in wines from outside this bastion of perfection. Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, South America, California – all are rivalling France for a share of our taste buds, especially when the sun is high in the sky.
Out of Africa
So which New World wines should we be drinking this summer? Well, perhaps the
most exciting of countries right now is
South Africa. If there is a place where the barbecue is more revered than in Australia, it's here – and the wines are almost made with a flame grill in mind. Take Railroad Red Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, Western Cape, South Africa (£5.99) – it's
a straightforward classic glugger with lovely black cherry fruit flavours and a hint of spice on the finish, but with enough hardiness to ensure that anything emerging from the charcoal is more than matched. It may be easy drinking, but this is no shrinking violet.
If you want something more refreshing, you'll find great value among South Africa's white wines. Graham Beck's Waterside Chardonnay 2004/05 Western Cape (£4.99) is one example, as is Brampton Viognier 2004/05 Stellenbosch (£7.99). Both are racy, invigorating and juicy. But if you can stretch the budget – and it is a stretch – try Ken Forrester FM Chenin Blanc 2003, Stellenbosch (£16.99). It's sublime – citrus fruit-filled and creamy. Heaven in a glass!
From Down Under
While South Africa is storming ahead
in the taste stakes, the big daddy of the
New World, Australia, isn't sulking in the corner either. Let's face it, it's almost impossible to think about alfresco dining without considering the great contribution made by this country's producers. They offer so much choice, it's almost bewildering.
If you pressed me to recommend two great wines from down under to enjoy this summer, I'd opt for Yering Station MVR 2004 from the Yarra Valley (£9.99) and the Yalumba ‘Y Series' Shiraz/Viognier 2004 (£6.99).
It may seem odd to spend more on your white than your red, but the MVR, which stands for Marsanne, Viognier, Roussanne, repays the investment with its delicious peach, pear and apple-fruit compote, and creamy vanilla finish. It's exceedingly drinkable,
as is the Shiraz, which has a touch of
Rh�ne-like sophistication with its tiny
addition of Viognier. Its red and black bramble fruits, smooth but powerful
tannins and an intriguing touch of liquorice, make this a juicy partner for almost any offering from the barbecue – burnt or,
with any luck, otherwise.
Outdoor eating isn't just about the flame, though. Whether it's tapas, antipasti or just a simple salad, you don't need to fire up the barbie as an excuse to sit on the patio and enjoy a few glasses of something delicious.
Fresh Approach
One of the best wine-producing countries at the moment is New Zealand. Its fabulous Sauvignon Blancs will certainly hit the spot on baking-hot days. One of my favourites is Craggy Range Sauvignon Blanc 2005 Old Renwick Vineyard, Marlborough (£10.99) – a deliciously grassy Sauvignon with a hint of melon and lots of gooseberry. Ever so refreshing. Perhaps a little more oddball, but no less refreshing, is the Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Gris 2005 (£8.49). From the East Coast of the country, it's a zippy, peach and apricot-filled beauty with a lovely racy finish – and you'll find it's a friend to most summer dishes.
Of course, summer wouldn't be summer without a glass or two of rosé, which is all the rage right now. Chile is a dab hand at this style. Its Torres San Medín Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2005 Curic� Valley, Chile (£5.49) is a heavenly Cabernet-based rosé packed with fresh strawberry and cranberry fruits, and it's oh so refreshing in the hot sun.
North American pink is well worth indulging in, too. Fetzer Valley Oaks Syrah Rosé 2005 (£5.99) from California is a deep, rich, red cherry and redcurrant-dominated rosé with passion and power, so even if
the sun decides not to come out, it offers more than enough zing to brighten up the dullest summer's day.
Chris Orr is a wine writer and the author
of The Virgin Wine Guide: How to buy better wine for your money (Virgin Books).
Prices correct at time of publication.
This article was first published on Waitrose.com in July 2006.