The arrival of September marks the beginning of the British pie season, writes Sybil Kapoor. It starts with an increased consumption of tarts, followed by a yen for crisp filo parcels, then runs riot with pies of every description. It is triggered by the combination of a glut of late summer food and the first chill of autumn. Over the centuries we have developed a fine array of recipes. Toppings range from fluffy mashed potato to delicate sponge, while fillings make use of everything from fishing catches to late summer fruits.
Mention pies to most people, and their thoughts usually turn to pastry. Whether flaky, short or puff, it is, in my opinion, the most delicious topping of them all. Yet grown cooks turn wobbly around the knees at the thought of making their own. I have known many who will confidently throw together the most incredible sauces, soufflés and cakes, but bashfully admit to buying their pastry ready-made. Ironically, it is very easy to make. Pastry even freezes well, allowing you to prepare it in advance.
I, for one, was racked with anxiety about my own pastry for many years. My insecurity stemmed from reading too many recipes that reinforced its reputation as being difficult to make - all rubbish. Here are my three golden rules for success: number one, only make pastry when you are feeling confident. Number two, forget about all the hype. You do not need a marble work-top or ice-cold hands. It doesn't matter whether you make it by hand or partly in a food processor - be gentle and light and the results will be good. And lastly, remember that everyone really appreciates homemade pastry - no matter how crumbly or misshapen.
Most of the problems pastry-makers experience are easy to solve. If your pastry is hard and shrinks, you have added too much water. If you roll out some shortcrust pastry and it crumbles and cracks, you haven't added enough water (flours can vary in the amount of water they absorb, so it is worth sticking to one brand). If your pastry shrinks but is not tough, you may not have chilled it enough. If it is greasy and heavy once cooked, the dough may have been overworked.
The one ready-made pastry you may prefer to buy is filo, which takes a lot of practice to make well. Its brittle texture lends itself to meat, fish, cheese, vegetables and fruit. Look at Middle Eastern recipes such as Claudia Roden's for your inspiration. Alternatively, indulge in all those non-pastry pies, such as a sugary, cinnamon-scented plum cobbler, instead.