Visitors have been flocking to this elegant West Country spa ever since Roman times. Heidi Ruge is the latest to take the waters.
The Roman Baths and Pump Room
When the Romans invaded in AD43, they decided they needed a place to unwind. So, as a part of their settlement of Aquae Sulis, they built a complex of baths, along with a temple dedicated to Sulis Minerva, the Goddess of the springs. Today, the baths on Stall Street are the city's biggest draw. After a visit, you will be flush with such fascinating facts as how the hot spring water that bubbles up throughout the city first fell as rain on the nearby Mendip hills some 10,000 years ago, and that it contains no less than 43 dissolved minerals, including calcium, sodium and iron.
Afterwards, try 'taking the waters' at the adjoining Pump Room restaurant. In the 18th century, visitors would guzzle up to a gallon of the stuff a day, hoping to benefit from its healing properties. It is dispensed by the Official Pumper, a lively character dressed in period costume, for 50p a glass.
The Bath House
Of course, these days you can't actually bathe at the Roman Baths, although the city does have its share of great spas for a spot of Roman-style relaxation. The most tranquil is The Bath House at The Royal Crescent Hotel, where you can swim by candlelight or dip in hot and cold plunge tubs. Opening later this year, the modern Thermae Bath Spa will include a rooftop pool, overlooking the abbey, filled with natural hot spring waters.
the Royal Crescent
Designed by John Wood and completed in 1767, the Royal Crescent is a majestic Georgian arc of 30 houses. At No1, which has been restored to its original glory, you can get a glimpse into the life of an 18th-century burgher. You can even become a temporary resident, by booking a room at the elegant, listed Royal Crescent Hotel, which is located at number 16. The hotel's individually designed rooms and suites are named after notable ex-residents of the Crescent, such as Jane Austen and Beau Nash.
Sally Lunn's
Sally was a Huguenot baker who fled religious persecution in France some 300 years ago to earn a crust selling her bread in Bath. Her buns, similar to brioche, are still made to the same recipe at Sally Lunn's restaurant, where you can try them with sweet and savoury accompaniments. Afterwards, pay a visit the downstairs museum to see the original kitchen, complete with faggot oven.
This is not the city's only famous dough-based delicacy, though. The Bath bun is a sweet currant bun dating from the 18th century, and is still popular for elevenses or tea at some
of the city's traditional teashops, such as the aptly named Bath Bun tearoom.
Bath Abbey
Among the city's museums, the Bath Abbey Heritage Vaults, which recreates the magnificent Abbey's 1,600-year history, is well worth a visit. Also good are the Building of Bath Museum, which tells the story behind the city's architecture, and The Museum of Costume at the Assembly Rooms, worth a look if only to marvel at how women managed to walk in the huge, hooped dresses of the 19th century.
Demuths
After 17 years, Demuths vegetarian restaurant has become a Bath institution. Its red and purple decor creates a modern feel, while its relaxed vibe is aided by some soothing jazz and world music. As well as tucking into dishes such as Egyptian falafel or southern Indian mallung curry, you can also sign up for a cookery class.
Hotel dining
The city's hotel restaurants are the best bet for fine dining. At the newly refurbished Olive Tree at the Queensberry Hotel, you can enjoy modern English cooking with Medi-terranean flourishes, while Pimpernel's at The Royal Crescent has an eclectic menu and an extensive wine list. Alternatively, head for the Bath Priory Hotel, where - weather permitting - you can sit on the terrace and enjoy a meal made from veg and herbs grown in the garden your table overlooks.
Bath breakfast
The Real Bath Breakfast scheme recognises those places that prepare the day's first meal from ingredients produced within 40 miles of the Abbey. The Carfax Hotel on Great Pulteney Street is such a place. Here, for £6.50, you can tuck into a Continental buffet or a hearty fry-up.
Bargain lunch
There are loads of great places to pop in to for a spot of lunch. For burgers and shakes, try Café Retro on York Street. The best-value set lunch (from £12 for two courses) is at the Moody Goose in Kingsmead Square, where the menu comprises modern British fare made from regional ingredients.
The Old Green Tree
Bath has a wealth of places to go for a pint. The nicest is the Old Green Tree on Bridge Street, a 17th-century pub with gorgeous dark wood panelling and original interiors, plus a good choice of real ales. The Hop Pole on the Upper Bristol Road is another good choice for its regional pub fare and local ales, including those of nearby Bath Brewery.
Bath rugby
Ever since the club was founded in 1865, Bath has been at the forefront of English rugby union and is one of the top teams in the country. Watch the boys in action at the Recreation Ground, the club's home ground in the heart of the city, in the shadow of Robert Adam's stunning Great Pulteney Bridge.
Bartlett Street
The heart of Bath's buzzing antiques quarter is Bartlett Street, where you can find something for all tastes and pockets. Other shops worth visiting are Lopburi Art and Antiques on Saville Row, which specialises in Buddhist antiques, and Vintage to Vogue on Milsom Street, where you can buy clothes, lace and linens from the 1850s to the 1950s.
Cheddar Gorge
According to legend, Cheddar cheese was first 'discovered' deep in the caves of the cheddar Gorge by a milkmaid, who had left a pail of milk there for safekeeping. When she returned, she found that it had turned into cheese. Cheddar is still made at the Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company, a 45-minute drive out of Bath. Here, you can watch cheese-making demonstrations, before exploring the Gorge's beautiful subterranean caves and dramatic cliffs.
The walks
Bath is surrounded by some stunning countryside, so strike out from your city base for the Cotswolds to the north, the Mendips to the south, Chew Valley Lake to the west, or the plains of Wiltshire to the east. Whether you're hiking or driving, it's well worth breaking up your day at one of the many fine local country pubs, such as The Wheatsheaf in the pretty village of Combe Hay, a traditional inn with oak beams, log fires and a chalkboard menu of hearty English fare.
City music
Over 17 days in May, the 55th Bath International Music Festival will bring the best of local and worldwide musical talent to the heart of the city. This year, there will be a week of opera at the Theatre Royal, as well as performances of jazz, classical and world music, from artists as diverse as John Williams and the Netherlands Wind Ensemble.