Old Plaw Hatch Farm is noteworthy not only because it employs biodynamic methods, but also because its financing involves the local community in the food production process, says Sarah Freeman. Photographs by Lisa Anders.
Old Plaw Hatch Farm, near Sharpethorne in West Sussex, is one of about 90 farms in the UK to be run according to Rudolph Steiner's agricultural principles, known today as biodynamics. In addition to its farming methods, Old Plaw Hatch is remarkable for the way in which it is managed. Along with another farm in the area, Tablehurst, it is one of only a few examples in this country of community-supported farming. The land and buildings of both farms are owned by a local charitable trust, in return for which the farms have educational obligations, such as offering work experience to students and showing the public around. To raise money for improvements and expansion, Tablehurst sold its day-to-day business, including the animals, to a co-operative, while Old Plaw Hatch's business was sold to a few large shareholders. In both cases, the backers are more interested in good food than profit.
Under the guiding hands of the recently appointed farmer, Michael Duveen, and his partner Jayne Thomas, the money generated by the sale of the business to shareholders has enabled Old Plaw Hatch to add beef cattle to its dairy herd and introduce pigs. There are also plans to expand both the farm shop and the dairy. A new head cheesemaker has joined them and, in collaboration with cheese expert James Aldridge, is developing a washed-rind cheese which will be the only one of its kind in the organic repertoire.
The farm is reached via a tunnel of trees. The sunlight shining through the leaves makes a pattern of gold on the road; the ground is covered with a mesh of bracken which in autumn turns the colour of toast. On the left sits a row of red-brick stables, the first of which houses the farm shop. The produce on sale here includes succulently marbled beef hung for three weeks, newly laid eggs, honey from the farm's hives, unpasteurised milk, cream, yoghurt, and the original, spicy Old Plaw Hatch cheese, which won a gold medal at the 1998 British Cheese Awards. According to the season, fruit and vegetables include strawberries, the juiciest raspberries and snappiest green beans in Sussex, potent but soft-tasting rocket and truly bitter radicchio.
Two gardeners tend to nine acres of market garden, and 100 hens, which reliably lay 100 eggs a day, have the run of a field so green and immaculate that it looks as if it were grazed by sheep. Milk is supplied by a herd of Meuse-Rhine-Issel (MRI) cattle and the beef is a cross between MRIs and Aberdeen Angus. None of the cows are de-horned and the calves are left with their mothers for five months instead of being separated after the customary 24 hours.
Evidence of Michael's energy is everywhere, yet he possesses a great philosophical calm, or perhaps one should say spiritual calm, since Steiner's original term for biodynamics was 'spiritual science'. For Michael, biodynamics is an extension of organic farming in two respects. Firstly, in order to be infinitely sustainable, the farm must be self-contained, buying in nothing, or as little as possible, from outside. It must produce its own animal feed, bedding, manure, and any necessary treatments and remedies, although, as with organic farming, the aim is to avoid pests and disease by providing a balanced environment.
Secondly, whereas organic farmers consider only conditions on earth, biodynamic farmers take a holistic approach, seeing plants as a living link between the earth, the air and the cosmos. They examine the position of the planets and the phases of the moon to determine when to plant and harvest crops, with the aim of 'restoring life' to the soil, without depending on chemical fertilizers and sprays. Michael admits that to the uninitiated, these methods might seem a little strange, but says: "The earth is part of the universe, which means that you should look at it in its cosmic context. The effects of the sun and moon are obvious examples. All the earth's energy comes from the sun, and its relation to the earth affects the weather."
A number of community-supported biodynamic farms have been founded in Germany and the US; of the ones in Britain, several are run by the Camphill Village Trust, including two at Loch Arthur in southern Scotland and one at Larchfield, Middlesborough, which recently won a Soil Association award for its meat. The Camphill farms are slightly different, however, in so much as part of their function is to provide work for village residents with learning difficulties. Another venture akin to Old Plaw Hatch is an organic farm near Inverness, which established its dairy herd by issuing shares worth the price of a cow: purchasers are repaid with butter, yoghurt and cheese.
This support brings the farms advantages beyond the ability to raise funds, because it guarantees them a core of regular customers. And for their part, the customers have contact with the farmers and a degree of control over the production of the food they put on their tables.
Old Plaw Hatch Farm, Sharpethorne, West Sussex RH19 4JL. The farm shop, which is open seven days a week, can be contacted on 01342 810201.