The capital of Iceland offers
a warm welcome to Heidi Ruge, who discovers plenty to write home about – from cod
cheeks to steaming geysers.
Architecture
At its best, Icelandic architecture is as various and exciting as the country itself. Reykjavik boasts streets of delightful old timber houses, while contemporary architecture includes the Hallgrímskirkja cathedral, which took most of the 20th century to build – it was finished in the 1990s – and resembles a bubbling volcano. The ultra-modern city hall, the Rádh�s, is another must-see; lit up at night it appears to merge with the adjoining Lake Tjörnin.
The Food and Fun Festival
In February, Iceland's gastronomic elite vie for the title of the Chef of the Year. Restaurants offer special menus and the chefs battle it out on 21 February, in a day of events culminating in a meal at the celebrated Nordic Hotel restaurant, Vox. Book ahead now. Other highlights for visitors include the Winter Lights Festival, also in February, and the
30-year-old Reykjavik Arts Festival in May.
Ap�tek
Stylish decor and beautiful food make this city-centre bar and grill stand out in Reykjavik's restaurant scene. Light streams through the building's arched windows, which, along with wooden floors and a glass-walled kitchen, give the place an airy feel. This suits the modern Icelandic menu, which includes dishes such as lamb with Portabella mushrooms and scallops with trout roe and truffles.
The Blue Lagoon
In Grindavík, 40 minutes' drive from Reykjavik, the Blue Lagoon is one of the world's most extraordinary spas. Stepping out of the frosty air and into the steamy waters is as satisfying as taking a dip in a cool river on a hot afternoon. The
desolate volcanic landscape just adds to the drama of these rock-encased waters, which pour into the lagoon from the nearby Svartsengi geothermal facility, where the naturally hot water is used to heat homes in Reykjavik. It's difficult not to enjoy this spa: just order cocktails from the bar, paint your face with silica mud and enjoy the extraordinary view.
Horses
Iceland's native horses are unlike any others in the world. The descendants of animals introduced by Vikings over 1,000 years ago, they have been kept apart from other breeds ever since. The settlers only had room for their best horses, so the gene pool was excellent. Today, their sunny character makes them an easy ride, even for beginners. The Íshetar Riding Centre in nearby Hafnarfjördur provides equipment and transfers from hotels.
Hot dogs
One of Reykjavik's oldest culinary landmarks is the much-loved hot dog shack, Bæjarins Betzu ('The Town's Best'). Although unassuming to look at, it has been serving hungry Icelanders from its position near the harbour since 1934. As there is very little pig farming in Iceland, it has always used lamb instead of pork. It does a lot of its trade in the early hours, when party-loving locals pass by during a night out on the town.
The Pearl
Peering down from its prime location at the top of �skjuhlíd hill just south of the city, Perlan looks like the headquarters
of a James Bond villain. Its beautiful glass dome perches on six huge aluminium storage tanks, which contain the city's hot water supply. The fourth floor has a café and observation deck for taking in the magnificent views. On the fifth floor is a revolving restaurant, which takes two hours to make a full rotation.
Preserved foods
In an environment as inhospitable as Iceland, it is unsurprising that the art of preserving food has always been central to the native cuisine. Everything edible is smoked, salted, dried or pickled to make it last over winter. This tradition is very much alive today, and Icelanders still snack on smoked salmon with herbs (lax), sticks of wind-dried fish (hardfiskur) and even pickled ram's testicles (s�rsadir hr�tspungar). Other delicacies include cod cheeks (gellur) and, something of an acquired taste, fermented shark (hákarl). At the weekend, you can try local produce in the food section of Kolaportid flea market, near the Hafnarh�s, Reykjavik's art museum.
Fishing villages
Although half the population of Iceland now live in Reykjavik, the rural fishing villages that were once the mainstay of the economy still exist. A good example is the pretty hamlet of Stokkseyri, just 45 minutes' drive from the
capital by car. The waves of the cold North Atlantic rush up its beautiful but desolate black volcanic beaches, overlooked by a snug harbour and the village's fairytale houses. After a stroll on the sands, head to the cosy Fjörubordid restaurant and indulge in their huge platters of freshly caught lobster.
The Golden Circle
The rugged landscape and singular geology that make Iceland so extraordinary are evident in three sites of natural beauty near Reykjavik, called the Golden Circle. Thingvellir National Park is only half an hour from Reykjavik and offers plenty of flora and fauna in the summer and breathtaking snowy landscapes in winter. At Geysir, around 100km from the capital, the iconic Icelandic thermal springs shoot forth water and steam. The last of the trio is Gullfloss, a magnificent waterfall on the River Hvítía, just 20km or so further on from Geysir.
Hotel Borg
When it was opened in 1930 by ex-wrestler J�hannes J�sefsson, the Hotel Borg caused quite a stir. Its magnificent Art-Deco interior was of a grandeur suitable for the foreign dignitaries and stars such as Marlene Dietrich and William Faulkner that made up its clientele. Even if you don't have a reservation, look around its dazzling lobby, which was restored in 1993 to its original design with cork and marble floors, dark walls and ceilings and opulent golden doorways. For a different flavour, visit the chic Hotel 101, where Iceland's stylish sorts sip cocktails in the bar.
Northern lights
Aurora borealis, or the northern lights, are natural phenomena most commonly observed in winter. They appear when solar wind particles collide with air molecules in the atmosphere and make them glow, producing magnificent beams of light which dance across the sky. Displays can last anything from a few minutes to a few hours, but you'll need the weather on your side.
Einar Ben
One of the most established restaurants in Reykjavik, Einar Ben is named after Icelandic poet and nationalist politician Einar Benediktsson (1864–1940). The tempestuous times in which he lived are reflected in the restaurant's bold decor, such as in the dizzying Icelandic Room, which is painted in the blue, red and white of the Icelandic flag. Over time, the menu has developed from traditional Icelandic food to classic French cuisine using staples such as fried salmon with tartare sauce and minted pea purée, and lamb with root vegetables, jus of thyme and garlic.
Kaffi Reykjavik Ice Bar
Every single thing in the bar at this restaurant – chairs, walls and even the bar itself – is made from blocks of crystal-clear ice. The poncho-style duvets provided on entry are hardly flattering, but, combined with a couple of warming vodka cocktails, they are essential if you don't want to turn into an icicle.
The great outdoors
In the winter months, an exciting alternative to skiing is to take an excursion on a snowmobile. Popular excursions on these
easy-handling but surprisingly powerful vehicles are to the snowy wastes of Lyngdalsheidi, close to Thingvellir National Park, or to the beautiful plateau at Hellisheidi. But if that all sounds a little too energetic, try whale- and dolphin-watching off the coast of Reykjavik instead. As well as white beaked dolphins and minke whales, out at sea you could spot puffins, gannets and kittiwakes.