All I want for Christmas is...

We asked UKTV’s Market Kitchen presenters the one thing they couldn’t do without this festive season. This is what they told us.

Christmas is in full swing in the Market Kitchen, the only daily food show dedicated to cooking and shopping for seasonal produce. Presenters Tana Ramsay, Diana Henry, Matthew Fort, Tom Parker Bowles and Matt Tebbutt will be testing the seasonal offerings now packing the shops, and hand-picking the products they think offer the best in taste and value. Turn to UKTV Food weekdays at 8pm.

Diana Henry

Cinnamon sticks

Diana is 2007 Guild of Food Writers’ cookery journalist of the year, and is the author of Roast Figs, Sugar Snow.

‘There’s something about the smell of cinnamon that just says Christmas. I always put lots in my mulled wine, and there’s nothing like that lovely aroma you get from a pan of it simmering away on the stove. Sometimes I mull port instead, with cinnamon sticks, a clove-studded orange and the juice of a couple of oranges and a lemon. For the kids, I make mulled apple juice, an idea I got in New England, where they call it mulled cider.

The other thing I love about cinnamon sticks is that they look so pretty. Every year, I spend a Sunday decorating, and I’ll tie little bundles of cinnamon sticks with ribbon to put on the wreath for the door. I’m not at all the Martha Stewart type the rest of the year, but there’s something about Christmas that makes me want to be. I spend the day covered in pine needles and being pricked by the holly, but I absolutely love it.

By the time Boxing Day’s over, I’m a bit fed up with English food and am craving something different, so I’ll use my cinnamon in a dish with a Middle Eastern flavour. I like to make a filo pastry pie, filled with minced lamb, mixed with cinnamon, raisins and pine nuts. It’s still festive, but it’s a lovely change after all that turkey.’

Matthew Fort

Madeira

Matthew is an award-winning food writer and a restaurant critic at The Guardian.

‘Madeira is one of those forgotten drinks that I think is so much more complex and interesting than most wines or champagnes. It has a wonderful, warming, nutty quality that’s just what you need in the run-up to Christmas. There are different types of Madeira, but the one I’d choose is Sercial, which is the driest, and has a slightly burnt edge to it that I like. It’s very versatile and surprisingly good with lots of different kinds of food – I like it with grilled vegetables, where that burnt edge makes a sublime combination with the caramelised flavours. It’s also very good with chocolate cake. At Christmas, I’d serve it as an apéritif – it’s wonderful with nuts and raisins to nibble on – and it would also stand up very well to Christmas pudding. Madeira’s a complex, warming drink – sophisticated and completely yummy!’

Tom Parker Bowles

Smoked salmon

Tom is a keen home cook and the author of The Year of Eating Dangerously.

‘I know it makes me sound like Scrooge, but I don’t think much of most Christmas food. For me, turkey’s the most boring meat ever, I don’t like Christmas pud, and I hate mince pies! But what I do love at Christmas is the excuse to splash out on a really good smoked salmon. Like chicken, it’s a food that’s become a bit everyday, but Christmas is a time to buy the best you can afford. I always choose wild salmon. I love the idea that it’s like a glorious hero of the oceans, a great explorer, which makes it long and lean, and gives it a flavour that’s completely different from farmed fish.

I have it as a starter on Christmas Eve, with good brown bread and some Irish or English butter, black pepper and maybe the tiniest squeeze of lemon. I like to pile it up high, so everyone gets a nice big lot of it, and I serve it with champagne, or a crisp, dry white that’ll stand up to the flavour – maybe a Muscadet, or a flinty Chablis. Then on Boxing Day, when most of the guests have gone and everything’s calmed down, I have it with scrambled eggs. It’s wonderful comfort food that’s so easy to make, and the salmon turns something really simple into something very special.’

Matt Tebbutt

Stilton

Matt is chef at award-winning restaurant The Foxhunter in Abergavenny.

'I’d choose Stilton because it’s one of our great British cheeses, and it’s really at its best in December, when it’s had time to ripen. It’s also traditional, and Christmas is a time when people want that. No one thanks you if you get quirky and bring out a Roquefort or try to serve anything other than turkey.

I always buy a whole Stilton for Christmas. One year, I tunnelled out some of the inside and filled it with port. It’s the most decadent thing on earth, and cheese snobs hate the idea, but it’s absolutely lovely when the port melts through the cheese – though I’m told too much of it gives you gout!

Another lovely way to serve it is with natural honey on the comb and perhaps poached pears, but really it’s so good you don’t want to mess about with it. I’d have it with really good bread or sweet digestive biscuits and a nice port, and just put it on the table and let everyone dig in. It’s one of those things you can bring out at every meal and just keep picking at until it disappears – you can worry about the gout in January.’


UKTV’s Market Kitchen food programme is sponsored by Waitrose.

This article is from Seasons:
Issue November 2007





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