Darina Allen, above, shows how a little bit of know-how can transform the most ubiquitous of foods into a wonderful meal.
When I was growing up, most people in the Irish countryside kept a few hens and a cockerel, which inevitably resulted in a few clutches of chicks throughout the year. The hens were reared for laying and the roosters were fattened for the table. Roast chicken was a treat, a special feast to be looked forward to. How times have changed.
Mass-produced chicken is now a firm fixture on menus and in ready-meals, and can be dull and bland. However, if you understand how to select and cook it properly, it's easy to create wonderful meals with chicken. Seek out free-range, organic birds, as these have the best flavour. In some intensive units, up to 30 chickens are squeezed into a square metre, where they are fattened in just 41 days, as opposed to 9-12 weeks in an organic, free-range system. The resulting meat is lacking in flavour and texture.
Food these days has become more 'convenient' and, as a result, we are becoming deskilled. So learn a few basic techniques and take back control. If at all practical, buy a whole chicken, and learn how to cut it into joints. You can then use the drumsticks, thighs, wings and breasts in separate dishes - and the carcass for stock - and you get more value for money. Drumsticks lend themselves to marinades; slash the flesh first so the flavours can penetrate, then roast or barbecue. We use thighs for curries, casseroles and stews, and wings make great finger food.
For convenience, however, you may want to buy chicken breasts on their own because it's so easy to turn them into delicious meals. Try chunky chicken sandwiches with bacon, salad and mayonnaise, or harissa-coated chicken, which, served with couscous, is a good dinner-party dish. For best results, cook breasts on a cast-iron griddle pan; it tastes quite different to chicken cooked in a frying pan.
If you want to keep the skin on your chicken breasts, sprinkle them with a little salt and cook, skin-side down first, on the hot grill pan. The skin will be crisp and delicious. If you remove the skin, it can be cooked separately. Cut it into three or four pieces, spread on a wire rack over a baking tray and cook in a very low oven until the fat has rendered out and the skin is crisp. Sprinkle with salt and serve as a nibble with a bowl of plum sauce.