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What makes a croissant great? According to US food writer Jeffrey Steingarten, it should be "extremely flaky on the outside; easy to break in half; moist inside, yet with all internal layers visible; and delectable." That may be a tall order, but this old recipe from French baker Patrick Leon Esquerré, from the Loire, stands up to the test.
Tear into a packet of Waitrose butter croissants (£1.15/two) and smother them in strawberry jam, dunk them into steaming hot chocolate or fill them with ham. Buy these hand-rolled, hand-shaped croissants made with Normandy butter and all the hard work's done for you.
This recipe was first published in June 2005.