Forced rhubarb

This joyful vegetable masquerades as a winter-brightening fruit. Kept in the dark during the growing process, the stalks are forced to shoot upwards, seeking the light. Rhubarb works well in sweet and savoury dishes too; when balanced with rich counterparts (such as oily fish or goat’s cheese), finely shaved strips of raw rhubarb can add welcome acidity.