25 Great Eastern European Destinations

Today, Tirana is struggling to its feet: there are brave little parks in the dusty, traffic-clogged streets, and open-air cafés everywhere. In the Bllok area, the Art Deco villas of the ruling elite have become restaurants and clubs that wouldn't look out of place in London or Barcelona.

Tirana's 'sights' are few; there's an 18th-century mosque, a 19th-century clocktower, and a medieval bridge. The highlights are modern. The city's charismatic mayor, former artist Edi Rama, has painted the town red… and pink, green and orange. Grim Communist-era apartment blocks are now done up in blazing colours, giving them a bizarre, playful air.

Tirana's coolest bar is the Living Room, a restored 1920s mansion full of well-dressed arty types. From the rooftop terrace, you can gaze over the lights of a battered, buzzy city, which at last seems to be coming up in the world.

Paul Mansfield

Direct flights to Tirana from London Gatwick cost from £145 with British Airways (0870 850 9850; ba.com).

HUNGARY
TOKAJ

During the Soviet era, the luscious amber nectar that is Tokaji wine was literally forced underground. The revitalisation of both the drink and the region in recent years has been cause for celebration among locals and visitors alike.

Back in 1989, wine writer Hugh Johnson set off to the northeastern corner of Hungary in search of gold. He'd been tipped off that it was to be found underground, in the medieval cellars of the Tokaj region. Johnson had spent much of his career lavishing praise on the poetic landscapes of Bordeaux and Tuscany and their great wines. He hadn't anticipated the magic that awaited him in Tokaj.

The gold that Johnson sought was Tokaj's wine, previous pages. Communism had halted export of this glorious substance – and, for the most part, destroyed its traditional production. The few Tokaji wines produced behind the Iron Curtain were insipid in comparison to those which had once excited the palates of czars, kings and popes.

Johnson finally met Istvan Szepsy, whose cellar contained what he was after: authentic Tokaji that Szepsy had made on the side. The pair formed the Royal Tokaji Company and revived the local wine industry.

So Johnson found his gold – but in fact, the region is a treasure in itself. In October, as the harvest approaches, the rolling vineyards drip with nectar-rich, deep bluish-purple Asz� grapes, opposite – hundreds of which go into a single glass of Tokaji Essencia. The cold air thickens with the scent of damp autumn leaves and honey, and woolly-hatted workers rise at dawn to pick the grapes with their bare hands.

The region's main wine-growing area snakes in and around three settlements: Tokaj, Tarcal and Mad. The richest vineyards are to be found in Tarcal, a small village of quaint guesthouses, the grand Gr�f Degenfeld Castle Hotel and cozy, firelit restaurants serving local wine and hearty Hungarian fare (goulash, local carp, dumplings and roast pork with apple). Winding through the village are the Tisza, opposite, and the Bodrog rivers. Locals believe that their confluence here creates the perfect conditions for making superior wine: the cool breeze encourages botrytis, the mould that makes for lusciously sweet grapes.

Come to Tokaj in autumn for the harvest, or in May for the Tokaj Wine Festival. Whenever, take the opportunity to taste wines from Johnson's own vineyard, Mezes Mály, and other unforgettable wines, many of which are still unavailable outside the region.

Rachel de Thample

Two-night tasting tours of Tokaj cost from £899pp, including flights, meals and all tastings, with Arblaster & Clarke (01730 893344; arblasterandclarke.com).

SERBIA
BELGRADE

Prise open the gritty, oyster-like shell of Belgrade, and within, you'll find a shiny, hedonistic culture. As the stark concrete buildings fade into the evening, the capital's party pulse begins to throb. Belgraders embrace the night with amazing energy: it's not unusual for people to stay out all night and go straight on to work.

Kick-start the night with a rakija, plum brandy, and dinner. Chat to the locals and you might get details for one of the city's secret bars, which began life as places where people could discuss politics. They might look like anonymous flats outside, but inside the cocktails flow freely.

Otherwise – or afterwards – clubs spread around the city pump out music until dawn. Down by the river, bar and club barges shake with pop, techno and Serbian folk music.

When you do rest your head, go for the Art Nouveau Hotel Moscow, one of Belgrade's lovelier buidlings. Here, the daily changing lift carpet is printed with the day of the week, for those who've really embraced the party spirit.

Belinda Humphery

Three-night city breaks to Belgrade start at £299pp with Regent Holidays (0870 499 0911; regent-holidays.co.uk).

CZECH REPUBLIC
PRAGUE

Although with varying degrees of CAMRA-endorsed literacy, many of Prague's visitors might be described as 'beer tourists'. But wherever you try your pivo, a perfectly chilled glass of Staropramen makes particular sense in the town of its birth.

Prague is packed tight with bars, from the touristy operations around the Old Town Square (Staromestské námestí) to the jaw-droppingly bibulous roads a little further out. Try a wander down the defiantly uncobbled street of Borivojova in the evening for a glass or 20.

The major Czech beers are all in evidence around town, from Pilsner Urquell (Plzensk´y Prazdroj to the locals), Budvar and Staropramen to home favourites like Krusovice. Do try a few microbreweries, though. Among the best is Pivovarsk´y Dum on Jecná. Forget the odd interior design and enjoy the memorably nuanced, unfiltered home-brew – or try one of the flavoured beers (cherry, say, or nettle) that make most Belgian and Dutch equivalents taste like Panda Pops.

Joe Luscombe

Flights and four nights at Hotel Pariz costs from £395pp with Cox & Kings (020 7873 5000; coxandkings.co.uk).

MOLDOVA
MILESTII MICI

Wine has been made in Moldova for 5,000 years. During the Soviet period, however, a quarter of its vines were grubbed up in a state-sponsored attempt to battle alcoholism (or in a sinister bid to instal the more Russian vodka as Moldova's drink of choice, depending on who you believe).

But the Soviets did bequeath one legacy to Moldovan viticulture: the Milestii Mici cellars. A half-hour from the capital, Chisinau, this comprises 250km of underground tunnels. The site's excavation began in 1949, and took 20 years to complete.

Today, visitors can drive through the deliciously cool, half-lit tunnels, each named after the wine it houses: Aligoté Street, Pinot Street and so on. Two million bottles are stored here, many made from traditional local grapes (such as Feteasca and Negru de Purcari) and all in varying degrees of dustiness – most are aged in the bottle for at least a decade.

They're sold like this, too, in local supermarkets; a good patina of mould, dust and cobweb is seen as a badge of authenticity.

Paul Dring

Three-night city breaks to Chisinau start at £445pp with Regent Holidays (0870 499 0911; regent-holidays.co.uk).

POLAND
HAJNOWKA

To find Europe's last primeval forest, you follow your nose. The signs say 'Bialowieza', but the air says 'vanilla'. Hajnowka is the town nearest this wilderness. Everyone here is involved in the making of Zubr�wka, one of Poland's finest vodkas.

Bialowieza Forest is full of zubra, or bison. You might imagine that a bison's idea of a square meal would be a couple of strapping hunters. But you'd imagine wrong. The beast's number one food is vanilla-scented Hierochloe odorata: bison grass. Intrepid foresters harvest the bison grass, which they give to the ladies of Hajnowka to be graded and trimmed. Inside a trimmer's front room the smell is gorgeous: hypnotic, exotic, narcotic.

The trimmed bundles go off to be distilled into an extract, which then turns vats of finest grain vodka into a delicate, intense drink. On bottling, a single stem of bison grass is inserted. Drink Zubr�wka long with best fresh apple juice or, like the smart people, neat with apple juice ice cubes.

Kevin Gould

A 15-day trip taking in the Bialowieza Forest costs from £910pp with Explore (0870 333 4001; explore.co.uk).

ROMANIA
TRANSYLVANIA

The best way to view the rugged landscape of the Carpathian Mountains is from horseback, as can be discovered on a week-long canter through Dracula Country.

I patted Gelo, my trusty steed, previous page, and eased him onto higher ground. A brief canter and we were taking in the view. Till 1918, this was the Austro-Hungarian border. We stepped along the ridge, careful not to slip into the remains of First World War trenches. Around us and into the distance were mountainous peaks.

"That's the Ukraine there," said Julian, our guide. We gazed at the clear views and down to the valley ahead, where we spotted buffalo grazing. "Don't go near them," he cautioned… which only encouraged the two young Romanians assisting our merry convoy. They trotted downhill to tease the beasts – though not quite enough to make them charge.

We continued along a route used by 15th-century merchants between the Romanian regions of Transylvania and Moldavia, before descending, past remains of ancient fortresses, to the village of Sant. Here, we tethered our horses and found hot showers in the guesthouse, along with a warming dinner of pork and potatoes and a well-earned sleep.

For several years now, Julian Ross has guided groups of riders through Transylvania and the Carpathian Mountains. You start in Bucharest, where, after a quick tour, an overnight train takes you to Vatra Dornei and a tour of Bucovina's painted monasteries. Another train journey and you arrive at the starting point for the ride: Lunca Ilvei. Here, during dinner on the first night, Julian susses out his guests and allocates horses accordingly. Next morning, and acquainted with your nag, you all set off for a one- or two-week ride through Romania's astonishingly beautiful countryside. The end of each (often very long) day sees rest in a hotel or guesthouse to which one's luggage has been sent ahead.

The result is a great holiday for anyone who loves riding. Each ride during my week seemed to be through parts of the world that were being discovered for the first time. We rode through rivers and lush valleys, and along craggy peaks, trudging over the last of winter's snow. Then, as lunchtime beckoned, we'd stop in some secluded spot, tether our horses to trees, and wolf down the sandwiches stored in our saddlebags, looking out onto glorious views. Heaven.

William Sitwell

Ride World Wide specialises in riding holidays throughout the world, from hotel breaks in Europe to tented safaris in Africa. An eight-night trip to Transylvania costs from £960pp, excluding flights (01837 82544; rideworldwide.com).

BULGARIA: SKIING
BOROVETS

Looking for an inexpensive ski holiday, with easy slopes and a lively atmosphere? Borovets is the ideal location. Don't expect St Moritz, but if you're after an eclectic and exotic atmosphere, lively nightlife, friendly locals and a dash of Turkish cuisine and music – the Turks ruled here for centuries – Bulgaria's best-known ski resort is hard to beat.

Borovets, the oldest and biggest Bulgarian resort, lies at the foot of Mount Musala – at 2,925m the highest peak in the Balkans. It has a colourful village centre, with picturesque wooden chalets lining a narrow precinct. The resort has 20 or more runs, skiing up to 2,560m, and 25 miles of pistes. It has a good mix of steep and gentler terrain, and good off-piste possibilities. As it is one of the highest resorts in Eastern Europe, snow reliability is good, too.

There are so many bars and restaurants that it's easy to visit a different après-ski haunt every night. The one Bulgarian word that you might find handy is 'nazdrave!': cheers!

Arnie Wilson

A week's half-board starts at £264pp, including flights, with Inghams (020 8780 4433; inghams.co.uk).

SERBIA: CYCLING
SOUTHERN SERBIA

The beauty of cycling and hiking around the hills of southern Serbia is that you don't have to share it with other visitors… yet. Riding through the rolling fields and rural villages feels like being in Tuscany many years ago, before the coachloads of tourists arrived. There is a route along quiet roads and dirt lanes to suit all levels and you don't need to go far to be surrounded by unspoilt landscape. For dramatic scenery, pull out your hiking boots and head to Sicevacka gorge, not far from the city of Nis. You'll find yourself talking in a whisper as you wander through the quiet village at the top and watch the locals tend their vineyards.

We stopped at an old water mill. The owner showed us traditional methods for grinding corn and shared with us stories of old Serbian folk beliefs, such as the value of spiderwebs for warding off vampires. I didn't want to leave.

Belinda Humphery

A six-night tour costs £400pp with ACE Cycling and Mountaineering (00 381 64 247 6311; ace-adventurecentre.com). For details, see serbia-tourism.org.

HUNGARY: BATHING
BUDAPEST

Natural hot springs have made Budapest a bathing hotspot for thousands of years. One of the oldest baths is the Kiraly, which dates from the 16th century and has scarcely changed since it was rebuilt in 1796. Here you can immerse yourself in Ottoman bath culture beneath the eerie light of the octagonal dome.

Don't expect fluffy robes and whale music however; the Kiraly has fairly basic facilities and stern, matronly staff.

For a more pampered experience, the magnificent Gellért baths are worth visiting for the Art Nouveau decor alone. You can bob around in the wave pool, or relax in massaging jets of water. Set in the tranquil city park, the Széchenyi baths also have a grand outdoor area, where old-timers pass hours playing chess.

After you've taken the waters, indulge yourself at one of the city's many fantastic restaurants. Our favourite was Gundel, where excellent Tokaji wines and delicious cuisine made the perfect end to our spa adventuring.

Heidi Ruge

Two-night city breaks start at £233pp with Thomson Cities & Short Breaks (0870 606 1476; thomsoncities.co.uk).

MACEDONIA: WALKING
OHRID

The relatively undiscovered republic of Macedonia, formerly part of Yugoslavia, is now gaining the recognition it is due for its fantastic walking opportunities. The landscape lends itself to outdoor pursuits, from gentle strolls along the banks of Lake Ohrid to more strenuous hikes in the many rugged, mountainous regions around the country.

The city of Ohrid enjoys a great setting next to the lake with its attractive pebbly beaches. The opulent Vila Sveta Sofija, set in a converted Ottoman house in the cobbled streets of the old town, makes an excellent base.

As well as offering various fascinating landscapes for the walker, Macedonia provides plenty of cultural interest. Relics of ancient Macedonia can be seen at Heraclea Lyncestis in the town of Bitola, and the country's many monasteries – in particular Treskavec, near the town of Prilep – make excellent places in which to take a scenic break from an energetic day's trek.

Emily Boyce

A 14-night walking tour including Macedonia costs from £899pp with Explore (0870 333 4001; explore.co.uk).

ESTONIA
TALLINN

Comparisons with Prague don't quite do the Estonian capital justice; besides the charming Old Town, there's a vibrant restaurant scene, serving up tasty, innovative food alongside hearty, traditional classics.

The capital of Estonia is often dubbed 'the new Prague'- but luckily this has less to do with rampaging stag parties and more to do with incredibly reasonable prices and Toompea, its Old Town, which is beautifully preserved, remarkably compact, and wonderfully romantic.

Raekoja Plats (Town Hall Square) is full of colourful Hanseatic buildings, such as the corner pharmacy, which is one of Europe's oldest. Above it, you'll find Balthasar, a beautiful wood-panelled restaurant that specializes in garlic, including flavoured ice cream and vodka. Squeezed into the ramparts of the town hall opposite is Tristan ja Isolde, a tiny candlelit den that's ideal for a nightcap.

For a taste of medieval Estonia, head to Olde Hansa, just off the main square. Although best described as a theme restaurant- you'll be greeted by costumed waiters and musicians playing traditional instruments- it's incredibly atmospheric and the only place you are likely to try such rarities as dried elk meat or marinated bear washed down with honey beer. For another taste of old world charm, head to Vanaema Juures (Gramdma's Place) for comfort food, Eastern European style. In this antiques-filled basement, try Saku Tume, a dark Estonian beer, to wash down pickled herrings with forest berries, or a hearty dish of fried eggs, ham and potatoes.

But eating out in Tallinn isn't all about tradition. Ö is an achingly trendy spot just outside the city walls. The award-winning ingredients; the eel poached in apple wine was a particular highlight, as were the excellent breads. Back in the Old Town, Pegasus is another good example of what the new Tallinn has to offer. Modern food with an oriental slant- a lighter alternative to more traditional, rib-sticking dishes- is served up in a cool space furnished with classic designs.

Cold afternoons were made for Chocolaterie Café, where 50 varieties of handmade truffles include sea salt, honey and vanilla- a tangily sweet treat. After that, you'll need a rest. At the lovingly restored Merchant's House Hotel, you can relax in the sauna before dinner in the hotel's cellar brassiere.

Amber Dalton

Three nights at the Merchant's House Hotel costs from £199pp, including flights and transfers, with Baltic Holidays (0870 757 9233; balticholidays.com).

SLOVAKIA
BRATISLAVA

Having spent the best pat of the last millennium under the thumb of Hungary, Austria, Germany and Russia, Bratislava has unsurprisingly developed a cuisine that is an intriguing mixture of influences. You'll find goulash (try Woch on Frantisánske námestie) strudel-like pastries (the atmospheric Kaffé Mayer on Hlavné námestie) and the gnocchi-like halusky (prasná basta on Zámocnícke does an upmarket bryndzove halusky, the sheep's milk cheese-covered national dish).

Most of all, pork is big here, as is saukraut. For this, go to Slovenska Restauracia, on Hviezdoslavovo námestie, the main square. My 'Farmer's Plate' featured multiple bits of pig in coarse harmony.

For more modern, witty, stacked-on-your-plate Euro take on the food of Slovakia, you must go to Opera Brasserie at the Radisson Hotel. Classic Slovak ingredients meet a modern European cast list of flavours here, in a way that seems like the EU expansion treaty on a plate.

Joe Luscombe

Flights and three nights at hotel Marrol costs from £455 with Cox & Kings (020 7873 5000; coxandkings.co.uk).

LITHUANIA
VILNIUS

The cloud of Soviet gloom has lifted and Vilnius is beginning to glow. Tiles are being polished, bright shades of paint are being slicked on and battered roads are being repaired. All in preparation for 2009 when Vilnius becomes the first new EU capital to take on the title of European Capital of Culture.

Eating out will surly be a part of the festivities. Already, restaurants such as Literatu Svetaine could easily compete with London's best; I had an expertly cooked wild sea bass with brown butter and beetroot.

Even traditional Lithuanian fare is being fine-tunes. The candlelit Stiklai Aludë apparently served a British royal a fine version of the country's famous forest mushroom soup and delicate potato pancakes.

Other gems include a game restaurant called Lokys; Avilys, a modern micro-brewery; and the tea rooms and bakeries on Traku Street.

The Iron Curtain has certainly been wrenched back on the stage of this city, which is putting good food to the fore.

Jeannine Stanford

A three night break costs from £375pp including flights with Cox & Kings (020 7873 5000; coxandkings.co.uk).

SLOVENIA
BLED

Less than a mile from beautiful Lake Bled, Mulej Farm offers an insight into Slovenia you would never see if you stayed in a hotel. This is a working farm; visitors can watch Joze Mulej milking his cows- and even help, if they have a mind to.

The fact is particularly apparent at mealtimes. Breakfasts are a thing of wonder, with bread freshly baked by Joze's wife Damjana, cheese, salami, preserves and yogurt all made on the farm, and even apple juice from Mulej's own trees. A slap-up and equally homemade dinner is also available, should you not fancy eating out in the pretty town of Bled.

The farm is in Selo, a village of Tyrolean-style houses with steeply pitched roofs and window boxes ablaze with scarlet geraniums. Here, allotments pour forth fresh produce and hayricks dot the broad valley, whose river is great for fishing. It's Lake Bled, though, that is the real draw, especially the island, which is home to a medieval fort that's probably the most photographed scene in the country.

Paul Dring

Seven nights' b&b at Mulej Tourist Farm costs from £376pp with Croatian Affair (020 7385 7111; croatianaffair.com).

CROATIA
ZAGREB

"Meet me at Charlie's for zagrebacka spica," insisted Ariana, my Croatian hostess. Literally translated, these spit-producing words mean 'rush hour'. But in Zagreb, the have become a buzzword meaning 'to see and be seen' . On a Saturday lunchtime, Zagrebians put on their finery and hit the case for double macchiatos and gossip.

Each café attracts a different set: Caffe Charlie is where the politicians got to chomp on their cigars, and Hemingway Bar, near the opera house, draws the fashion crowd.

Caffe Bar Orient Express is a quieter spot that hints at Zagreb's elegant past. The Croatian capital was a rest stop for those travelling from Paris to Istanbul on the luxury train, and the café is furnished with the remnants of one of its carriages; green leather booths, silver trimmed tables and a stunning Art Deco bar.

Zagreb is an exciting, progressive city, one that continues to enjoy its long-established reputation for hipness.

Rachel de Thample

A three night break costs from £610pp with Hidden Croatia (0871 208 0075; hiddencroatia.com). Croatia Airlines (0870 410 0310; croatiaairlines.hr).

Prices correct at time of publication.