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Eton mess is what happens when the labrador sits on the picnic basket in the back of the Roller on the way to the Fourth of June parents' day. No Etonian of my limited acquaintance seems to recognise the dish, though it often pops up on Modern British menus. If you have neither the time nor inclination to make meringues, buy good-quality, shop-bought ones. Delicious, either way
This recipe was first published in Mon May 01 01:00:00 BST 2000.