Spiced roast goose with apples and shallots

1. Preheat the oven to 220˚C, gas mark 7. Remove the giblets and any excess fat from the goose’s cavity; set both aside. Joint the bird so you have a bone-in crown and legs for roasting, and wings and giblets for stock (see page 132 for a step-by-step guide). 

2. Make the stock. Put the wings and all the giblets except the liver (keep to make pâté, if liked) in a roasting tin; roast for 15-20 minutes. Meanwhile, melt a little of the fat in a large stockpot and add the shallots. Cook for a few minutes on either side until starting to soften (you may need to do this in batches). Transfer to a plate, leaving the fat in the pot. Add the remaining stock ingredients and the wings and giblets (leave any excess fat in the tin). Cover with cold water, bring to the boil, then reduce to a low simmer. Cook, uncovered, for 3-4 hours, skimming off any foam and fat. (You can do this in advance; let it cool then chill for up to 2 days. Skim off any fat before using.)

3. While the stock cooks, reduce the oven to 150˚C, gas mark 2. Pull 2 ‘petals’ from one of the star anise and put in a pestle and mortar with the juniper, bay, thyme and leaves from 1 sprig rosemary. Pound it all together, then add the garlic, salt and pepper. Pound again to make a paste and slather half over the goose legs. Put the legs into the roasting tin you used for the wings, along with any fat and skin from when you jointed the bird. Cover with foil and roast for 2 hours, basting halfway through.  

4. Using the tip of a sharp knife, lightly score the skin of the crown in a crisscross pattern and season with the remaining spice and garlic paste. Chill until 30 minutes before cooking. Remove the foil from the tin with the goose legs and pour off the fat (keep to use for potatoes), leaving behind any dark juices. Push the legs to one side and toss in the softened shallots, apples, cinnamon sticks, and remaining rosemary and star anise. Put the crown on top, baste with some of the fat, then put in the oven. Increase the temperature to 220˚C, gas mark 7 and roast for 30 minutes.

5. When the skin has browned, tip off the fat again, reduce the temperature to 150˚C, gas mark 2, and cook for another 35-40 minutes, basting with the pan juices a couple of times during cooking. Transfer the goose, apples and shallots to another roasting tin. Cover with a loose tent of foil and rest for 30 minutes. 

6. Meanwhile, tip off any remaining fat from the goose roasting tin and put the tin on the hob. Add the cider and 500ml goose stock, then bring to the boil, scraping any sticky bits from the bottom. Bubble for 20 minutes; season. Pile the apples and shallots onto a large serving platter. Pull the meat from the legs and scatter over the top. Cut the breasts from the bone and carve into thin slices. Ladle some of the juices over the top (put the rest in a jug). Scatter with the lemon zest and a handful of watercress. Serve with goose-fat roast potatoes and extra watercress, if liked.