Perfect potato salad

Put the new potatoes in a pan of salted water, bring to the boil and cook until soft (about 15-20 minutes).

While the potatoes are boiling, I like to lightly pickle a little celery (but if this feels like too much faff, just use your celery as nature intended). Put the diced celery stalk in a sieve. Boil a full kettle and pour it over the celery to blanch. Put the celery pieces in a small bowl with the white wine vinegar and a pinch of salt, and set aside.

Now, make the mayonnaise (or, again, skip this and use 200g of your usual). Rest a bowl on a folded tea towel to keep it in place. Put the Dijon mustard, egg yolks and a pinch of salt in the bowl and whisk to combine. Very slowly drizzle in the groundnut oil, whisking all the while. Do the same with the extra virgin olive oil. Whisk through the white wine vinegar and lemon juice; season.

Once cooked, drain the potatoes and, if liked, peel away their skins as soon as you can handle the heat. Cut into halves or quarters and toss them gently with the mayonnaise, salad onions, wholegrain mustard, parsley, capers and the drained pickled (or not-pickled) celery. Add more of anything you like, and season. Eat straight away.