Chicory gratin

Preheat the oven to 180°C, gas mark 4. Heat the oil and 50g butter in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Fry the halved chicory heads in batches, cut-side down, for 5-7 minutes until golden brown. Carefully transfer, cut-side up, to a large gratin dish (about 20cm x 30cm). Season with salt, a couple of good pinches of cayenne pepper and generous gratings of nutmeg.

Add the remaining 50g butter to the frying pan over a medium heat. Once melted, stir in the flour and bubble for a couple of minutes. Add the bay leaves and gradually stir in the wine until smooth. Gradually whisk in the milk until smooth, followed by the cream. Bring to a simmer, then bubble for about 5 minutes until thickened, stirring often.

Remove the pan from the heat, then add the garlic, mustard and three quarters of the combined cheeses; stir for a minute until the cheese has melted, then season.

Pour the sauce over the chicory and sprinkle with the remaining cheese, plus a pinch more cayenne. Cover with foil and bake in the oven for 45 minutes. Remove the foil and cook for 15-20 minutes more, or until bubbling and golden. Leave to stand for 5-10 minutes before serving with crusty bread and a well-dressed green salad, if liked.