Zucchini fritti with anchovy mayonnaise

For the mayonnaise, mix the egg yolks and mustard in a large bowl. Using an electric handheld mixer, start slowly adding both oils, a drop at a time. Wait until each drop is well amalgamated and the mixture has thickened a bit before adding the next. As it develops more body, add the oil in slightly larger quantities.

Add the parsley, garlic, anchovies, some salt, the white pepper, to taste, and 2 tsp lemon juice. Taste – I sometimes add more lemon juice. Adjust if needed, cover and put in the fridge.

Trim the ends of each courgette, then cut into 0.5cm strips, like French fries. The strips can be the length of the whole courgette (they look good if they’re long). Toss in the milk, then the flour, and shake gently in a colander or large sieve to remove excess flour. You will have some flour and milk left over, but it’s better and easier to have too much for coating than too little.

Set a double layer of kitchen paper on a large tray by the hob and heat the oil in a 23cm-wide, deep saucepan to give about 3-4cm depth. There has to be plenty of room above it (the oil will bubble up when the courgettes are added).

Heat the oil to 180ºC, then deep fry the courgettes, in 4-5 batches. Stir to keep them from clumping together. Scoop out with a slotted spoon once crisp and golden. It usually takes between 90 seconds and 2 minutes.

Put the courgettes onto the kitchen paper and scatter with salt. If serving the fritti with the anchovy mayo, put the mayo into a bowl. If not, leave them and serve with lemon wedges.