Portuguese-style sponge cake

Prepare the tin (do this while the eggs are whisking if you have a stand mixer). Lightly grease a 23cm round cake tin, at least 6cm deep. Add a little flour, turn the tin to coat, then tap out the excess. Line the bottom with a circle of baking paper.

Using a stand mixer with the whisk attachment (or a large bowl and electric hand mixer), beat the eggs for 5 minutes, or until thickened and lighter in colour. Add the vanilla.

Preheat the oven to 200°C, gas mark 6. Gradually add the sugar in a fine stream and beat for 15 minutes more, or until thick, fluffy and doubled in volume. Don’t whisk fast or you’ll end up with fake bubbles that deflate. Start low, then turn up to medium. Whisk until the ribbon stage, when a trail of mixture sits clearly on the surface for a couple of seconds if you lift the whisk out.

In a separate bowl, sift together the flour and baking powder. Add the salt. Remove the egg and sugar mixture from the stand mixer. Slowly add the dry ingredients to the wet mixture in 3 or 4 stages, gently mixing in by hand with the wire whisk attachment after each addition. If using a hand mixer, remove the beaters and use one in your hand.

Add the lemon zest, if using. Don’t overmix or the batter will deflate. Pour into the prepared tin. Bake for 10 minutes, then lower the heat to 180°C, gas mark 4 and bake for 20 minutes more. A skewer inserted in the centre should come out clean.

Turn the cake (still in its tin) upside down and place on a cooling rack for about 1 hour. This helps stop the cake from deflating. Once cool, carefully slide a small, serrated knife down the side and saw round the edge to loosen. Remove the cake from the tin and place back on the wire rack (right way around) until cold.

Serve with a dusting of icing sugar, whipped cream or Greek yogurt and seasonal fruit or fruit compote. This will be deep enough to split in 2 or 3 (using a gentle sawing motion with a bread knife) and layered with buttercream, cream or whatever you prefer, if liked.