The best roast chicken

Find a saucepan or pot large enough to comfortably fit the chicken (and clear a space in the fridge large enough for it). Measure 2L water in a jug. Add the salt, sugar, lemon quarters, peppercorns and garlic to the pot, with a third of the water. Bring to the boil, stir for a few minutes until the sugar and salt dissolve, then remove from the heat.

Pour in the remaining water and add the herbs. Allow the mixture to cool completely, then add the chicken, breast-side down. Make sure it is fully submerged, then cover and place in the fridge for 12-24 hours.

Meanwhile, make the compound butter. Place the butter into a small bowl and add the lemon zest and garlic. Finely chop the leaves from the herbs, and crush the fennel seeds to a fine powder using a pestle and mortar or spice grinder. Add both to the butter, with the salt and a grind of black pepper, and stir well.

When ready to cook, remove the chicken from the brine, allowing any excess liquid to drip back into the container, and place in a roasting tin. Pat the skin dry thoroughly with kitchen paper, then leave the chicken to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 230ºC, gas mark 8.

Using your fingers, carefully prise the skin from the chicken breast, creating a pocket all the way over the breasts and the top of the legs. Fill with the compound butter, smearing it as evenly as you can underneath the skin.

Remove the lemon halves, garlic and herbs from the brine liquor and use to fill the cavity (they may not all fit, so use enough to comfortably fill the bird). Make sure none of the filling is protruding, or it may burn. Tie the legs together using a piece of cook’s string Discard the brine.

Place the chicken into the centre of the oven, roast for 20 minutes, then lower the temperature to 200ºC, gas mark 6 and rotate the roasting dish for even browning. Roast for 50-55 minutes more (longer for a larger chicken), until the skin is golden brown. Baste with the fat from the pan halfway through the cooking time.

The chicken is ready when the thickest part registers 75ºC on a meat thermometer, and there is no pink meat and the juices run clear. Don’t overcook it, or you’ll lose the moisture.

Allow the chicken to rest, uncovered, for at least 15 minutes before carving. Don’t forget to save the juices to turn into a delicious gravy!