Brown rice risotto with hot-smoked trout

1 Preheat the oven to 200ºC, gas mark 6. Coarsely grate ½ the parsnips and slice the remainder into 1cm-thick coins. Set a frying pan over a medium heat and add 1 tbsp oil. Fry the sliced parsnips for 5-6 minutes on each side until caramelised and cooked through.

2 Meanwhile, put the stock in a medium saucepan, bring up to a simmer, then keep hot over a low heat. Put the remaining 1 tbsp oil in a large saucepan over a low heat. Add the onion with a pinch of salt and cook, stirring often, for about 8 minutes, until translucent and soft. Turn the heat up to medium, stir in the rice to coat in the oil for 1 minute, then add the wine and allow the liquid to evaporate. Add the grated parsnip to the pan, followed by ¼ of the hot stock, stirring well.

3 Keep the pan at a gentle simmer, turning the heat down if needed, and stir often, gradually adding more stock once the liquid has reduced below the surface level of the grains. After 40-45 minutes, the rice should be tender and risotto-like but slightly soupy. All the stock should have been added, but if you need more liquid to fnish cooking the rice you can add hot water, a ladleful at a time, until you reach the desired texture. Remove from the heat; add the thyme and spinach, stirring into the hot grains to wilt. Add the fromage frais and the lemon zest and juice, plus a generous grinding of black pepper. Stir and leave to rest for a further minute. Serve straight away in warm bowls, topped with the fried parsnips, trout and extra thyme. Note that this dish will separate slightly and look soupy around the edges, so eat with a spoon if liked.