Black Forest choux buns

Tip the chocolate, 5g of the butter and a pinch of salt into a small heatproof bowl. In a small pan, heat the custard until steaming, then pour it over the chocolate and let sit for 1-2 minutes, until the chocolate has melted. Carefully stir together until smooth. Lay a piece of damp baking parchment directly on top and chill for about 2 hours, until set.

Meanwhile, make the craquelin. Put all the ingredients in a mixing bowl and beat together until it forms a ball. Place between 2 pieces of baking parchment and roll out to the thickness of a £1 coin. Transfer to a tray (still between the parchment) and lay flat in the freezer for 30 minutes to firm up (or put in the fridge for around 1½ hours).

While everything chills, make the choux. Put 85ml water in a small pan with 40g butter and the caster sugar. Set over a low heat until the butter has melted, then increase the heat to high. Allow the mixture to boil rapidly for 20 seconds, then add the flour, turn the heat down to low and beat the mixture vigorously with a wooden spoon for 3-5 minutes until it comes together and leaves a little skin on the bottom of the pan. Remove from the heat and allow to cool for 5 minutes.

Add the salt to the beaten eggs, then pour a little of this mixture into the butter mixture and beat vigorously (it will look slimy and split but persevere), until it comes together. Add the remaining egg mixture in three increments, beating until it all comes together and is shiny. In some instances it may need a little more beaten egg – it should be glossy and smooth, and with a little shake should slowly fall off your spoon, creating a V shape. Once happy with the dough, transfer it to a piping bag.

Preheat the oven to 220°C, gas mark 7. With a pencil, draw 12 x 3cm circles, spaced 5cm apart, on a sheet of baking parchment. Use 4 blobs of the choux to stick the parchment, pencil-side down, to a baking tray – you should still be able to see the circles. Cut the tip of the bag straight across to make a 1cm hole. Pipe 12 x 3cm round buns on to the parchment. Remove the craquelin from the freezer, use a 4-5cm cutter to cut 12 discs and place one on top of each bun.

Reduce the oven temperature to 190°C, gas mark 5. Put the tray in the centre of the oven for 15 minutes (do not open the oven door). Then rotate the tray and bake for a further 5-10 minutes until the buns are a rich golden brown colour. Use a small knife to make a small hole in the side of each bun, then allow them to cool to room temperature.

Combine the cream and icing sugar in a bowl and use a balloon whisk to whip to medium peaks. To build the choux buns, cut the top off each, fill the bottom with a generous spoonful of the chocolate custard and either pipe or spoon some whipped cream on top. Spoon over 4 of the kirsch cherries, with about ½ tsp of their liquor. Sandwich the choux lids on top and pipe or spoon a little more whipped cream onto each. Decorate with the fresh cherries.