The best mushroom risotto

Roughly chop the porcini or wild mushrooms, place into a small mug and cover with 75ml boiling water. Set aside.

Roughly chop the chestnut mushrooms. Heat 1 tbsp truffle oil in a large frying pan over a medium-high heat, then sauté until golden. Leave them undisturbed for a few minutes before stirring so they can develop some colour. Turn off the heat and set aside

In a large saucepan, melt half the butter with 1 tbsp truffle oil, then gently fry the onion and celery for 10-12 minutes until soft and translucent.

Stir in the rice and cook for 1-2 minutes more until the grains are slightly translucent around the edges. Pour in the wine and allow to bubble away.

Dissolve the stock cubes in a large jug with 1L freshly boiled water, then add the porcini mushrooms with their juices. Add the stock to the rice, one ladleful at a time, stirring often and allowing it to absorb before the next addition. Cook for 25-30 minutes until the rice is just al dente and creamy.

Stir through the sautéed chestnut mushrooms and porcini paste. Remove from the heat, add the remaining butter and the parmesan, then beat vigorously to emulsify. Cover and allow to sit for 3-5 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in the frying pan, add the woodland mushrooms or the maitake and shiitake mushrooms (whole or torn if large) and sauté until golden. When the mushrooms are almost ready, add the garlic, mix well to coat, cook for a final minute, then scatter over the parsley, add some seasoning and a sprinkle of cheese, then serve.